The word diamond comes from the Greek word adamas, meaning unconquerable or invincible.

“Diamonds are forever,” sang Shirley Bassey, while Marilyn Monroe insisted they were “a girl’s best friend.” Celebrated in song, over the last century diamond (April’s birthstone) has become the most marketed of gemstones.

Legends and lore

The myths and facts associated with the diamond transcend cultures and continents.

The world’s first known reference to this gemstone comes from an Indian Sanskrit manuscript, the Arthsastra (which translates as ‘The Lesson of Profit’) written by Kautiliya, a minister to Chandragupta of the Mauryan Dynasty (322–185 BC).

Plato wrote about diamonds as living beings, embodying celestial spirits. Roman literature makes its first distinct mention of diamonds only in the 1st century AD, in reference to the alluvial diamonds found in India.
The ancient Greeks and Romans believed they were tears of the gods and splinters from falling stars. Cupid’s arrows were supposed to be tipped with diamonds, thus having a magic that nothing else can equal.

The Hindus believed that diamonds were created when bolts of lightning struck rocks. They even placed them in the eyes of some of their statues.

Jewish high priests turned to diamonds to decide the innocence or guilt of the accused. A diamond held before a guilty person was supposed to dull and darken, while a diamond held before an innocent person glowed with increasing brilliance.

The Romans wore diamonds because they were thought to possess broad magical powers over life’s troubles, being able to give to the wearer strength, invincibility, bravery and courage during battle.

Kings of antiquity led the battles wearing heavy leather breastplates studded with diamonds and other precious gems because it was believed that diamonds possessed god-given magical qualities and powers far beyond the understanding of humankind. Thus, warriors stayed clear of kings and those who were fortunate enough to have the magical diamonds in their breastplates.

An act of Louis IX of France (1214–1270) established a sumptuary law reserving diamonds for the King, indicating the rarity and value of this gem.
Until the 14th century only kings could wear diamonds, because they stood for strength, courage and invincibility. Small numbers of diamonds began appearing in the 14th century in European regalia and jewelry, set mainly as an accent among pearls. But the possession of extraordinarily large and noble diamonds was always the privilege of royal houses and rich families. As an example, the imperial crown of the Russian Tsarina Catherine the Second (1729–1796) was mounted with 4,936 sparkling diamonds.

In the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, every ring set with a precious gem was not considered as much a piece of jewelry, but more as an amulet that bestowed magical powers upon its wearer. When set in gold and worn on the left side, it was believed that diamonds held the power to drive away nightmares, ward off devils and phantoms, and soothe savage beasts. A house or garden touched at each corner with a diamond was supposed to be protected from lightning, storms and blight. Diamonds were also supposed to impart virtue, generosity and even to calm the mentally ill. Not only was it commonly believed that diamonds could bring luck and success, but also that they could counter the effects of astrological events.

Just the facts

As a gemstone lover, you may have heard about the 4 C’s related to valuing gemstones and in particular, diamonds. While other factors such as origin sometimes need to be taken into consideration when valuing colored gemstones, below is a basic guide to the 4 C’s that diamond professionals and connoisseurs the world over rely on: cut, color, clarity and carat weight.

Color

Colorless and near-colorless diamonds are rare, beautiful and highly prized among connoisseurs. To the untrained eye, most diamonds look white. However, to the professional there are small differences in the degrees of whiteness seen.

Diamond Color Grading Scale
D, E, F	These purest tints are rare and comparatively expensive. Their rare color assigns them a higher market price.
G, H, I	Often offering much better value, to the untrained eye they seem the exact same color as the more expensive D, E and F colors.
J, K, L	Discounted for their barely perceptible yellowish tints, diamonds in this range offer excellent value.
M to Z	Further discounted for their more distinct yellow hues.
Z+	Diamonds whose color intensity is outside the normal range are called fancy colors and come in about any color you can imagine (e.g., pink, red, green, purple, black, blue, yellow and more).

Clarity

Inclusions are tiny natural features within the body of a diamond. Nearly all gemstones contain some inclusions, however many are microscopic and can only be seen under magnification. While the prevalence and acceptability of inclusions varies from gemstone to gemstone, in general, if they do not interfere with the beauty of a gemstone, they are not only accepted, but are also a fascinating hallmark of authenticity that records a gem’s natural relationship with the earth.

Diamond Clarity Grading Scale
FL = FLAWLESS	No inclusions or blemishes of any sort under 10x magnification when observed by an experienced grader.
IF = INTERNALLY FLAWLESS	Has no inclusions when examined by an experienced grader using 10x magnification, but will have some minor surface blemishes.
VVS1 to VVS2 = VERY VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED	Contains minute inclusions that are difficult even for experienced graders to see under 10x magnification.
VS1 to VS2 = VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED	Contains minute inclusions that are difficult even for experienced graders to see under 10x magnification.
SI1 to SI3 = SLIGHTLY INCLUDED	Contains minute inclusions such as small crystals, clouds or feathers when observed with effort under 10x magnification. The SI3 diamond clarity grade was created because many in the diamond industry felt that there was too wide a gap between SI2 and SI1. After the EGL (European Gemological Laboratory) started issuing certificates with the SI3 grade, the Rapaport Diamond Report (the definitive price guide for diamonds) added SI3 to its price list.
I1 to I3 = INCLUDED	Contains inclusions (possibly large feathers or large included crystals) that are obvious under 10x magnification.
PK = PIQUE	Inclusions easily visible to the naked eye.

Cut

With round brilliant cut diamonds accounting for over 80% of diamond sales worldwide, ask anyone what a diamond’s shape is and they will probably say round. Despite this shape, there are many other beautiful diamond cuts that warrant serious consideration. The eight most popular diamond cuts are emerald cut, heart cut, marquise cut, oval cut, round brilliant cut, pear cut, princess cut and radiant cut.

Unlike colored gemstones, diamonds are cut, shaped and proportioned to a remarkably uniform ideal. In 1919, the Russian mathematical genius Marcel Tolkowsky, a member of a large and powerful diamond family, published his opinions of what diamond proportions result in the optimum balance of brilliance and fire.

Carat weight

Unlike colored gemstones, diamonds are generally cut to a uniform ideal for maximum brilliance (white light reflections), fire (flashes of color) and scintillation (play of light). With this uniform cutting and proportions, we can very conveniently and accurately equate diamond carat size with their millimeter size.

Round Brilliant Cut Diamond
Size	Typical Weight
1 millimeter	0.01 carat
2 millimeter	0.03 carat
3 millimeter	0.10 carat
4 millimeter	0.25 carat
5 millimeter	0.50 carat
6.0 millimeter	0.75 carat
6.5 millimeter	1.00 carat
7.0 millimeter	1.25 carat
7.5 millimeter	1.65 carat

Diamond grading

Developed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), this system is now commonplace for the retailing of diamonds across the globe and consists of a diamond clarity scale and a diamond color scale.

Diamond color scale

Prior to the introduction of the GIA grading system, the letters A, B and C were used to grade diamonds. As the GIA wanted a fresh start, they decided to begin with the letter D.

Pairs and suites

Pairs or suites of diamonds matched for color, clarity and cut are more highly valued per carat or per gem than single diamonds of the same quality. Given the rarity of many diamonds, a matching set is disproportionately hard to find and thus commands a higher per carat price than if each of the diamonds from the suite were sold separately.

Colored diamonds

Most colored diamonds found in jewelry today are treated. The process known as color enhancement involves using clean diamonds and modifying their color with a combination of electron bombardment and heat using safe electron-accelerator technology. This enhancement duplicates the processes that produce colored diamonds within the earth. All color enhanced diamonds sold by GemsTV are treated in the USA to certified international standards.

Unlike some other diamond treatments, color enhanced diamonds are treated to fulfill preferences for vivid color only; this coloring technique does not try to hide or dissipate flaws. The myriad of popular diamond colors produced using this technology includes blue, green, red, orange, yellow, pink, purple and black. The real beauty and popularity of these diamonds lies in the fact that they combine both the rich color hues of colored gems such as rubies and sapphires, with the unforgettable brilliance and sparkle of a diamond. In other words, they virtually become “two gems in one.”