By Diana Jarrett, GG

Queen Alexander

There's a trending movement for designers today to pay homage to early jewelry designs. Some of this fashion leaning is due to the public's fascination with the detailing and sense of individuality evident in centuries old jewelry. In fact jewelry it ancient times was most always 'one-offs', since each was created by commission.

One of the hottest gemstone shapes now are rose cut diamonds and garnets along with other precious stones. Rose cut stones are distinguished by their flat bottom unlike modern faceted gems which have deep pavilions on their underside. Rose cuts also have fewer top side facets, some as little 6 per stone, and they are shaped in some way to converge at a center point on top of the stone.

Pearls from Georgian, Victorian and earlier epochs were natural pearls. Pearl culturing began early in the 20th century so if a piece of pearl laden jewelry is original to the period from the 19th century and before, those pearls will be natural.

Jane Seymour

Jewelry lovers should study when gemstones were discovered if they are considering buying a piece of antique jewelry. The same is true if one is designing vintage inspired jewelry. While garnet and amethyst for example have been around for eons, tanzanite and tsavorite are modern 20th century gemstones, and the compelling color-change Zultanite is a super-newbie, less than 30 years old.

Queen Charlotte of Mecklinburg Sterlitz, Queen Consort of George III

Finally a little research goes a long way. One of the best ways to develop a sense of what authentic antique jewelry should look like is to hit the museums. Especially museums which exhibit large paintings of ancient royalty. Most every regal portrait depicts its subjects in their bejeweled finery. One can see how they wore their glittery adornment and how often they layered--and layered--and layered. Think Madonna meets Coco Chanel meets Marie Antoinette.

This private-eye sleuthing will yield not only inspiration for your own designs, but a greater appreciation of the important role that jewelry has played in the story of civilizations throughout time.