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Pearls
Introduction
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The days of island inhabitants
free diving into bottomless, azure oceans to harvest Pearls are more or
less over. Natural, uncultured Pearls are the most expensive of all Pearls
but are very rarely seen in today's market. Nowadays they only make appearances
as antiques.
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The romantic
image of yester-year's Pearl industry has been transformed forever by
the exigency of today's gem trade. The commercial reality of the 21st
Century has meant that most Pearls are now cultivated on special aqua-farms.
First cultivated by the Chinese as early as the 12th Century, the technique
was perfected and patented in 1919 by the son of a Japanese noodle maker.
Since then the production of these gems of the sea turned from a treasure
hunt into a business, and today Pearl culturing is now absolutely standard
across the industry. The art of farming Pearls, rather than waiting for
nature to take its course, has made them more abundant and affordable
than ever before. What was previously a luxury item for high society has
now become an affordable extravagance for all.
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While Pearls are classified
as colored gems, there is a unique appeal about them. Unlike other gemstones
that are born of earth and fire, Pearls are water born organic gems that
originate from living animals. They are also unique in the sense that
the principals of the 4 C's (color, Cut, Clarity and Carat) cannot be
applied to them. The evaluation of Pearls requires a different set of
criteria. A Pearls value is appraised according to the display of color,
luster, surface clarity, shape and size as well their “Orient”.
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Today’s market sees a bountiful
variety of cultured Pearls that come in every shape, size and color imaginable.
The modern Pearl market is incredibly diverse, and as if to reflect this,
prices for these water born jewels are as equally varied. But just what
do we mean when we talk about the “quality” of a Pearl? What makes one
Pearl more valuable than another?
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Legends & Lore
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Aphrodite's tears of joy,
dew drops filled with moonlight, Krishna's wedding gift to his daughter,
Cleopatra's love potion. The legends abound but one fact is undeniable,
Pearls are the oldest known gem, and for centuries were considered the
most valuable. So valuable if fact, that the Roman General Vitellius allegedly
financed an entire military campaign with just one of his mother's Pearl
earrings!
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The Romans were particularly enamored
of this gem of the sea and Rome's Pearl craze reached its zenith during
the 1st Century BC when upper class Roman women (the lower ranks were
forbidden from wearing them) wore their Pearls to bed so they could be
reminded of their wealth immediately upon awakening. They also upholstered
couches with Pearls and sewed so many into their gowns that they actually
walked on their Pearl-encrusted hems. The famously excessive Emperor Caligula,
having made his beloved horse a Consul, decorated it with a Pearl necklace.
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Cleopatra in describing her enormous wealth
and power, demonstrated to Marc Anthony how she could “drink the wealth
of nations” by crushing Pearls into a glass of wine.
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The first known source of Pearls was the
Persian Gulf and the ancients of the area believed that Pearls were a
symbol of the moon and had magical powers. Indeed, the oldest known Pearl
Jewelry is a necklace found in the sarcophagus of a Persian princess who
died in 520 BC.
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The earliest written record of their value
is in the Shu King, a 23rd Century BC Chinese book in which the scribe
sniffs that a lesser king sent tribute of “strings of Pearls not quite
round”. The Chinese also used Pearls in medicinal ways to cure eye ailments,
heart trouble, indigestion, fever and bleeding. To this day Pearl powder
is still popular in China as a skin whitener and cosmetic.
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In India, Pearls were believed to give
peace of mind and strength of body and soul.
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Europeans thought that swallowing whole
or powdered Pearls cured matters of the mind and heart, and strengthened
nerves.
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The Koran states that a good Muslim, upon
entering the Kingdom of Heaven, “is crowned with Pearls of incomparable
luster, and is attended by beautiful maidens resembling hidden Pearls”.
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During the Dark Ages, while fair maidens
of nobility cherished delicate Pearl necklaces, gallant knights often
wore Pearls onto the battlefield. They believed that the magic possessed
by the lustrous gems would protect them from harm.
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While Queen Isabella had to hock her impressive
collection of Jewelry to fund Christopher Columbus' expedition to discover
the new world, the investment paid off as the discovery of Pearls in Central
American waters added to the wealth of Spain. The flood of American Pearls
on to the European market earned the newly discovered continent the nickname
“Land of Pearls”. Unfortunately, greed and lust for these gems of the
sea resulted in the depletion of virtually all the American Pearl oyster
populations by the 17th Century.
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Pearls have long been considered ideal
wedding gifts because they symbolize purity and innocence. In the Hindu
religion, the presentation of an un-drilled Pearl and its piercing has
formed part of the marriage ceremony. While in the Western hemisphere
Pearls are the recommended gift for couples celebrating their 3rd and
30th wedding anniversaries.
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Pearl Origins
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The Natural Pearl begins life as a foreign
body, a grain of sand or coral, which makes its way into the shell of
a marine or freshwater mollusk – usually oysters or clams. The mollusk's
defense mechanism starts to coat the intruder with layers of a slightly
iridescent substance "Nacre", which is the attractive outside of the Pearl.
In its natural environment this will, after many years, form a Pearl that
is of a significant size and quality to be of commercial value.
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Unlike Natural Pearls, cultivated Pearls
do not begin as accidental intruders. The process starts with “Nucleation”.
A cultivated Pearl begins its life when a spherical mother-of-Pearl bead
is placed inside the mollusk. After this seeding process, the Pearl farmers
place the oysters in wire-mesh baskets and suspend them in the sea. The
aqua-culturists carefully tend to the oysters, overseeing their development
for a period of anything from 18 months to 3 years, eventually producing
high quality Pearls. The depth of the Nacre coating, an important factor
when estimating the value of Pearls, depends on how long the seeded Pearls
are left in place before being harvested.
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As with all things natural, Pearls can
only grow in the right conditions. The first thing to consider is the
provenance of the Pearl. Different Pearl varieties from different locations
command different prices. The best quality Pearls are found in the Asian
waters of Tahiti, Japan and China. However, due to the different environments,
mollusk species and production techniques, all cultivated Pearls have
their own distinctive qualities. Japanese Akoya Pearls, White South Sea
Pearls, Golden Pearls and Black Tahitian Pearls are considered the highest
quality and command premiums. However, Chinese Akoya Pearls and Freshwater
Pearls dominate the market and offer buyers attractive Pearls at affordable
prices.
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Akoya
Pearls
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Japan's wealth of knowledge for Pearl
production is only surpassed by the quality of its highly desirable
Akoya and Biwa Pearls (see Freshwater Pearls below).
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Akoya Pearls are very
popular and are named after the Japanese word for the relatively small
Pinctada Fucata oyster. At the southern end of the Mie Prefecture
is the Shima Peninsula, whose calm waters provide an ideal environment
for saltwater Pearl cultivation. It is here in this beautiful but
fragile ecosystem that the infamous Japanese Akoya Pearl is cultivated
but increasingly they are also grown in Chinese coastal waters as
well as Tahiti.
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These oysters are nucleated
with as many as five beads ranging from 2 to 6 millimeters in diameter.
Only about one out of five nucleated Akoya produces Pearls and only a
fraction of these are of gem quality.
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South Sea Pearls
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South Sea Pearls come
from Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines. Cultured in varieties
of Pinctada Maxima, this large, warm water loving, gold and silver-lipped
oyster produces Pearls of fabulous colors. Highly expensive they are
often unobtainable for many consumers. Fortunately, South Sea color
Akoya Pearls exhibit the same splendid orange, golden-yellow and pinkish
fancy colors, at a far more affordable price.
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Tahitian Pearls
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“Greenish Black Pearls are
perhaps valued higher than any other colored pearls, if they have
the proper orient: this is probably partly owing to their rarity.”
G.F. Kunz, 1908
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Tahitian Pearls
are from French Polynesia and are named after the tropical island
of Tahiti. Grown in the large black-lipped saltwater oyster (Pinctada
Margaritifera), Tahitian Pearls are celebrated for their
exceptional beauty. Tahiti's pure and tranquil waters are the
ideal cultivation grounds for the dramatic Tahitian Pearl.
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Tahitian legend
says that Te Ufi (Pinctada Margaritifera) was given to man by Oro,
the god of peace and fertility, who came down to Earth on a
rainbow and offered the Pearl to the beautiful princess Bora Bora
as a sign of eternal love.
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Black Pearls first appeared in Europe in
1845.
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Napoleon III’s wife,
Empress Eugenie was responsible for bringing Tahitian Pearls into
fashion. After the fall of Napoleon, Empress Eugenie’s necklace was
auctioned at Christies for US$20,000.
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“Azra” was the most famous natural
Tahitian Pearl, a centerpiece of a necklace that was part of the
Russian crown jewels.
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Tahitian Black Pearls
are prized and admired throughout the world, and have helped the
country to establish itself as the fourth largest exporter of Pearls
worldwide. The first Pearl farms were established on the atoll of
Hikueru and the island of Bora Bora in the early 1960s. Exports began
in 1972 and large-scale production was subsequently generated on the
islands of Marutea Sud and Mangareva. Today, Tahitian Black Pearls are
cultivated in pearl farms in a sprawling group of atolls and islands
in French Polynesia, the lagoons of the Tuamotu-Gambier Archipelago.
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In 1993, the French
Polynesia Government together with the Three Producers' Association
created the Groupement d'Intérêt Economique Perles de Tahiti (GIE
Tahiti Pearls). The GIE Tahiti Pearls is a special non-profit economic
interest group, aimed at promoting Tahitian Pearls and their
by-products overseas.
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The Robert Wan Pearl is
the largest cultured Tahitian Pearl in the world. Harvested in May
1996 at Robert Wan’s Pearl Farm at Nengo Nengo in Tuamotu Archipelago,
the Robert Wan Pearl measures 20.92 mm and weighs 12.5 grams.
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Tahitian Pearls
generally range in size from 8 mm to 16 mm and consists of many
thousands of layers of Aragonite (variety of Calcium Carbonate). In
contrast to many other Pearl varieties, Tahitian Pearls are cultured
for 4-5 years and have a Nacre thickness of 3-10mm.
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Tahitian Pearls display
a shimmering Orient (see “The Two Colors Of Pearls” below for a
definition) that is green, blue, pink or violet in color. These
Orient colors are in striking contrast to their silver to black body
color. Their Orient or overtone colors are sometimes given specific
names (e.g. deep green is called “Fly Wing”, “Peacock” is termed for
the combination of green & pink and “Eggplant” is a dark toned body
color combined with pink).
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Size, shape, color,
luster and brightness are the most important factors when evaluating a
Tahitian Pearl.
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Freshwater Pearls
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Although
historically originating in Japan, China is a now a major
producer
of Freshwater Pearls.
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The expertise
of Japanese Pearl farmers is not reserved to saltwater alone. Grown
in Lake Biwa, Japan's largest lake, the Biwa Pearl has a reputation
as one of the finest quality freshwater Pearls found anywhere in the
world.
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Our Chinese
freshwater Pearls are cultured in the Fuchum, Wu and Ling Rivers
of the Zhejiang Province in Southern China. China has successfully
concentrated on freshwater Pearls using not oysters but freshwater
clams. The humble clam, while not as widely celebrated as its
cousin the oyster, is equally capable of producing high quality
Pearls. Freshwater Pearl production on the Yangtze River in
Eastern China saw a marked increase in the seventies, and
production in this and other rivers has continued to increase and
is currently measured in hundreds of tons, a significant
proportion of which the Chinese industry grinds up to be used in
cosmetics. Using ever more intensive farming methods, the Chinese
are now close to overtaking Japan as the number one producer of
Pearls worldwide.
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While the Japanese
Akoya and the Tahitian Black Pearls are considered superior in quality,
they are much less common and therefore command higher prices than the
Chinese Freshwater Pearl.
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The Two Colors Of Pearls
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With provenance
considered, it is time to start looking at the Pearls themselves.
Generally, when examining Pearls it is best to view them on a non-reflective
white surface under diffused light.
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Apart from the obvious
body color (white, cream, pink, gold, silver-grey and black), there
is actually a second color to consider when evaluating Pearls. This
second color is actually a result of subtle iridescence. While not
instantly obvious, especially when similar to the body color, this
effect lends Pearls much of their allure and beauty. Typically, this
iridescence is seen most strongly on the crest of a Pearl’s horizon.
This beautiful, shimmering effect is known as the “Orient” or overtone
and denotes the depth of the Nacre. Pearls with rich colorful Orients
are generally valued higher than those that have little or no Orient.
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The body colors themselves
can be white, cream, pink (rose), golden, silver-grey and black. Preference
for color is subjective, meaning that generally there is no such thing
as a bad body color, it is purely a matter of choice. Most people choose
a color that flatters their natural skin tone. Regardless of body color
and Orient, Pearls on a single strand should always match one another.
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Many Black and Golden
Pearls are actually dyed Akoya Pearls. Natural Black Tahitian colors
and Golden South Sea colors are comparatively rare. While the
traditional method of coloring Pearls has been to bathe them in a
silver solution, more modern methods gives a deeper, more uniform body
color that contrasts well with their natural metallic orient.
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Chinese Pearls consist almost entirely
of Nacre and will often exhibit a distinct rainbow Orient. However, Japanese
Akoya Pearls, due to their very thin layers of nacre (3-5%), will rarely
show orient. By contrast, the Tahitian Black Pearl, cultured using the
Japanese method, will exhibit orient. Why? Because the nacre coating is
in excess of two millimeters, thick enough to allow light to reflect.
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Luster Of Pearls
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Pearls at their best are bright, reflective
gemstones - high luster generally equals high quality. If this is
important to you, try looking for Pearls with clean and even surfaces,
as they reflect more light and do so more evenly than Pearls with
blemished surfaces. However, please remember that most Pearls do have
blemishes; intelligent Pearl manufactures solve this problem by concealing
blemishes near the drill holes.
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Thin-coated cultured Pearls should
be avoided as they often display less luster and orient and can even
chip or occasionally peel. Pearls should possess a reasonably thick
layer of Nacre on the bead. Many people check for thin coats by peering
down the Pearl drill hole to see exactly where the thickness of the
coating starts on the bead. Other people check for a thin coat by
holding Pearls under a strong light source and rolling it back and
forth between their fingers - if you can clearly see the bead, the
coating is thin.
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Weight, Size & Shape
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As with other gemstones, value and weight
are intrinsically linked, the heavier the Pearl, the greater it's desirability.
However, there is one important difference, Pearls are measured and expressed
by their size not weight (e.g. 8.5 millimeters). Often very large Pearls
(9mm or more) are disproportionately expensive in comparison to their
price-to-weight ratio. When weight is needed for buying multiple Pearls,
it is usually stated in grams.
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Round Pearls should be as perfectly round
as possible. However, even top quality strands can contain the occasional
semi-round Pearl. Described as being round, semi-round, off round, or
baroque, the best shape, as with color is a matter of personal preference.
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Pearl Necklaces
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Pearl necklaces come in a wide variety
of styles:
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Bib: Consists of several
strands of Pearls of varying lengths.
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Collar or Dog Collar
(12-13 Inches Long): This style consists of multiple strands of Pearls
worn high on the neck. Very popular during the Victorian era, this style
is now making a bit of a comeback.
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Choker (14-16 Inches
Long): Similar to a collar, this style is worn somewhat lower on the neck.
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Princess (17-19 Inches
Long): Essentially the “Classic” length for a Pearl necklace, this style
lies slightly below the neck. This is versatile style that can be worn
with many different styles of neckline.
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Matinee (20-24 Inches
Long): Working well with suits and dresses, this style was traditionally
worn for semi-formal occasions.
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Opera (30-36 Inches
Long): Traditionally worn at formal occasions with evening dresses, the
Pearls are designed to fall below the bust line but these days such rules
are only viewed as guidelines. The strand can be doubled over if worn
during the day in less-formal settings.
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Rope (Over 36 Inches
Long): This is the longest of all Pearl necklace styles and was very popular
during the 1920’s. It can be doubled as well as knotted. Some rope necklaces
have multiple clasps, allowing it to be broken down into shorter necklaces.
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