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Pearls

Introduction

The days of island inhabitants free diving into bottomless, azure oceans to harvest Pearls are more or less over. Natural, uncultured Pearls are the most expensive of all Pearls but are very rarely seen in today's market. Nowadays they only make appearances as antiques.
 

The romantic image of yester-year's Pearl industry has been transformed forever by the exigency of today's gem trade. The commercial reality of the 21st Century has meant that most Pearls are now cultivated on special aqua-farms. First cultivated by the Chinese as early as the 12th Century, the technique was perfected and patented in 1919 by the son of a Japanese noodle maker. Since then the production of these gems of the sea turned from a treasure hunt into a business, and today Pearl culturing is now absolutely standard across the industry. The art of farming Pearls, rather than waiting for nature to take its course, has made them more abundant and affordable than ever before. What was previously a luxury item for high society has now become an affordable extravagance for all.
 

While Pearls are classified as colored gems, there is a unique appeal about them. Unlike other gemstones that are born of earth and fire, Pearls are water born organic gems that originate from living animals. They are also unique in the sense that the principals of the 4 C's (color, Cut, Clarity and Carat) cannot be applied to them. The evaluation of Pearls requires a different set of criteria. A Pearls value is appraised according to the display of color, luster, surface clarity, shape and size as well their “Orient”.
 

Today’s market sees a bountiful variety of cultured Pearls that come in every shape, size and color imaginable. The modern Pearl market is incredibly diverse, and as if to reflect this, prices for these water born jewels are as equally varied. But just what do we mean when we talk about the “quality” of a Pearl? What makes one Pearl more valuable than another?
 

Legends & Lore
 

Aphrodite's tears of joy, dew drops filled with moonlight, Krishna's wedding gift to his daughter, Cleopatra's love potion. The legends abound but one fact is undeniable, Pearls are the oldest known gem, and for centuries were considered the most valuable. So valuable if fact, that the Roman General Vitellius allegedly financed an entire military campaign with just one of his mother's Pearl earrings!
 

The Romans were particularly enamored of this gem of the sea and Rome's Pearl craze reached its zenith during the 1st Century BC when upper class Roman women (the lower ranks were forbidden from wearing them) wore their Pearls to bed so they could be reminded of their wealth immediately upon awakening. They also upholstered couches with Pearls and sewed so many into their gowns that they actually walked on their Pearl-encrusted hems. The famously excessive Emperor Caligula, having made his beloved horse a Consul, decorated it with a Pearl necklace.
 

Cleopatra in describing her enormous wealth and power, demonstrated to Marc Anthony how she could “drink the wealth of nations” by crushing Pearls into a glass of wine.
 

The first known source of Pearls was the Persian Gulf and the ancients of the area believed that Pearls were a symbol of the moon and had magical powers. Indeed, the oldest known Pearl Jewelry is a necklace found in the sarcophagus of a Persian princess who died in 520 BC.
 

The earliest written record of their value is in the Shu King, a 23rd Century BC Chinese book in which the scribe sniffs that a lesser king sent tribute of “strings of Pearls not quite round”. The Chinese also used Pearls in medicinal ways to cure eye ailments, heart trouble, indigestion, fever and bleeding. To this day Pearl powder is still popular in China as a skin whitener and cosmetic.
 

In India, Pearls were believed to give peace of mind and strength of body and soul.
 
Europeans thought that swallowing whole or powdered Pearls cured matters of the mind and heart, and strengthened nerves.
 

The Koran states that a good Muslim, upon entering the Kingdom of Heaven, “is crowned with Pearls of incomparable luster, and is attended by beautiful maidens resembling hidden Pearls”.
 

During the Dark Ages, while fair maidens of nobility cherished delicate Pearl necklaces, gallant knights often wore Pearls onto the battlefield. They believed that the magic possessed by the lustrous gems would protect them from harm.
 

While Queen Isabella had to hock her impressive collection of Jewelry to fund Christopher Columbus' expedition to discover the new world, the investment paid off as the discovery of Pearls in Central American waters added to the wealth of Spain. The flood of American Pearls on to the European market earned the newly discovered continent the nickname “Land of Pearls”. Unfortunately, greed and lust for these gems of the sea resulted in the depletion of virtually all the American Pearl oyster populations by the 17th Century.
 

Pearls have long been considered ideal wedding gifts because they symbolize purity and innocence. In the Hindu religion, the presentation of an un-drilled Pearl and its piercing has formed part of the marriage ceremony. While in the Western hemisphere Pearls are the recommended gift for couples celebrating their 3rd and 30th wedding anniversaries.
 

Pearl Origins
 

The Natural Pearl begins life as a foreign body, a grain of sand or coral, which makes its way into the shell of a marine or freshwater mollusk – usually oysters or clams. The mollusk's defense mechanism starts to coat the intruder with layers of a slightly iridescent substance "Nacre", which is the attractive outside of the Pearl. In its natural environment this will, after many years, form a Pearl that is of a significant size and quality to be of commercial value.
 

Unlike Natural Pearls, cultivated Pearls do not begin as accidental intruders. The process starts with “Nucleation”. A cultivated Pearl begins its life when a spherical mother-of-Pearl bead is placed inside the mollusk. After this seeding process, the Pearl farmers place the oysters in wire-mesh baskets and suspend them in the sea. The aqua-culturists carefully tend to the oysters, overseeing their development for a period of anything from 18 months to 3 years, eventually producing high quality Pearls. The depth of the Nacre coating, an important factor when estimating the value of Pearls, depends on how long the seeded Pearls are left in place before being harvested.
 

As with all things natural, Pearls can only grow in the right conditions. The first thing to consider is the provenance of the Pearl. Different Pearl varieties from different locations command different prices. The best quality Pearls are found in the Asian waters of Tahiti, Japan and China. However, due to the different environments, mollusk species and production techniques, all cultivated Pearls have their own distinctive qualities. Japanese Akoya Pearls, White South Sea Pearls, Golden Pearls and Black Tahitian Pearls are considered the highest quality and command premiums. However, Chinese Akoya Pearls and Freshwater Pearls dominate the market and offer buyers attractive Pearls at affordable prices.
 

Akoya Pearls
 
Japan's wealth of knowledge for Pearl production is only surpassed by the quality of its highly desirable Akoya and Biwa Pearls (see Freshwater Pearls below).
 

Akoya Pearls are very popular and are named after the Japanese word for the relatively small Pinctada Fucata oyster. At the southern end of the Mie Prefecture is the Shima Peninsula, whose calm waters provide an ideal environment for saltwater Pearl cultivation. It is here in this beautiful but fragile ecosystem that the infamous Japanese Akoya Pearl is cultivated but increasingly they are also grown in Chinese coastal waters as well as Tahiti.
 

These oysters are nucleated with as many as five beads ranging from 2 to 6 millimeters in diameter. Only about one out of five nucleated Akoya produces Pearls and only a fraction of these are of gem quality.
 

South Sea Pearls

South Sea Pearls come from Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines. Cultured in varieties of Pinctada Maxima, this large, warm water loving, gold and silver-lipped oyster produces Pearls of fabulous colors. Highly expensive they are often unobtainable for many consumers. Fortunately, South Sea color Akoya Pearls exhibit the same splendid orange, golden-yellow and pinkish fancy colors, at a far more affordable price.
 

Tahitian Pearls
 
 

“Greenish Black Pearls are perhaps valued higher than any other colored pearls, if they have the proper orient: this is probably partly owing to their rarity.”

G.F. Kunz, 1908
 

Tahitian Pearls are from French Polynesia and are named after the tropical island of Tahiti. Grown in the large black-lipped saltwater oyster (Pinctada Margaritifera), Tahitian Pearls are celebrated for their exceptional beauty. Tahiti's pure and tranquil waters are the ideal cultivation grounds for the dramatic Tahitian Pearl.
 

Tahitian legend says that Te Ufi (Pinctada Margaritifera) was given to man by Oro, the god of peace and fertility, who came down to Earth on a rainbow and offered the Pearl to the beautiful princess Bora Bora as a sign of eternal love.
 

Black Pearls first appeared in Europe in 1845.
 

Napoleon III’s wife, Empress Eugenie was responsible for bringing Tahitian Pearls into fashion. After the fall of Napoleon, Empress Eugenie’s necklace was auctioned at Christies for US$20,000.
 

“Azra” was the most famous natural Tahitian Pearl, a centerpiece of a necklace that was part of the Russian crown jewels.
 

Tahitian Black Pearls are prized and admired throughout the world, and have helped the country to establish itself as the fourth largest exporter of Pearls worldwide. The first Pearl farms were established on the atoll of Hikueru and the island of Bora Bora in the early 1960s. Exports began in 1972 and large-scale production was subsequently generated on the islands of Marutea Sud and Mangareva. Today, Tahitian Black Pearls are cultivated in pearl farms in a sprawling group of atolls and islands in French Polynesia, the lagoons of the Tuamotu-Gambier Archipelago.
 

In 1993, the French Polynesia Government together with the Three Producers' Association created the Groupement d'Intérêt Economique Perles de Tahiti (GIE Tahiti Pearls). The GIE Tahiti Pearls is a special non-profit economic interest group, aimed at promoting Tahitian Pearls and their by-products overseas.
 

The Robert Wan Pearl is the largest cultured Tahitian Pearl in the world. Harvested in May 1996 at Robert Wan’s Pearl Farm at Nengo Nengo in Tuamotu Archipelago, the Robert Wan Pearl measures 20.92 mm and weighs 12.5 grams.
 

Tahitian Pearls generally range in size from 8 mm to 16 mm and consists of many thousands of layers of Aragonite (variety of Calcium Carbonate). In contrast to many other Pearl varieties, Tahitian Pearls are cultured for 4-5 years and have a Nacre thickness of 3-10mm.
 

Tahitian Pearls display a shimmering Orient (see “The Two Colors Of Pearls” below for a definition) that is green, blue, pink or violet in color. These Orient colors are in striking contrast to their silver to black body color. Their Orient or overtone colors are sometimes given specific names (e.g. deep green is called “Fly Wing”, “Peacock” is termed for the combination of green & pink and “Eggplant” is a dark toned body color combined with pink).
 

Size, shape, color, luster and brightness are the most important factors when evaluating a Tahitian Pearl.
 

Freshwater Pearls
 
Although historically originating in Japan, China is a now a major producer of Freshwater Pearls.
 

The expertise of Japanese Pearl farmers is not reserved to saltwater alone. Grown in Lake Biwa, Japan's largest lake, the Biwa Pearl has a reputation as one of the finest quality freshwater Pearls found anywhere in the world.
 

Our Chinese freshwater Pearls are cultured in the Fuchum, Wu and Ling Rivers of the Zhejiang Province in Southern China. China has successfully concentrated on freshwater Pearls using not oysters but freshwater clams. The humble clam, while not as widely celebrated as its cousin the oyster, is equally capable of producing high quality Pearls. Freshwater Pearl production on the Yangtze River in Eastern China saw a marked increase in the seventies, and production in this and other rivers has continued to increase and is currently measured in hundreds of tons, a significant proportion of which the Chinese industry grinds up to be used in cosmetics. Using ever more intensive farming methods, the Chinese are now close to overtaking Japan as the number one producer of Pearls worldwide.
 

While the Japanese Akoya and the Tahitian Black Pearls are considered superior in quality, they are much less common and therefore command higher prices than the Chinese Freshwater Pearl.
 

The Two Colors Of Pearls
 

With provenance considered, it is time to start looking at the Pearls themselves. Generally, when examining Pearls it is best to view them on a non-reflective white surface under diffused light.
 

Apart from the obvious body color (white, cream, pink, gold, silver-grey and black), there is actually a second color to consider when evaluating Pearls. This second color is actually a result of subtle iridescence. While not instantly obvious, especially when similar to the body color, this effect lends Pearls much of their allure and beauty. Typically, this iridescence is seen most strongly on the crest of a Pearl’s horizon. This beautiful, shimmering effect is known as the “Orient” or overtone and denotes the depth of the Nacre. Pearls with rich colorful Orients are generally valued higher than those that have little or no Orient.
 

The body colors themselves can be white, cream, pink (rose), golden, silver-grey and black. Preference for color is subjective, meaning that generally there is no such thing as a bad body color, it is purely a matter of choice. Most people choose a color that flatters their natural skin tone. Regardless of body color and Orient, Pearls on a single strand should always match one another.
 

Many Black and Golden Pearls are actually dyed Akoya Pearls. Natural Black Tahitian colors and Golden South Sea colors are comparatively rare. While the traditional method of coloring Pearls has been to bathe them in a silver solution, more modern methods gives a deeper, more uniform body color that contrasts well with their natural metallic orient.
 

Chinese Pearls consist almost entirely of Nacre and will often exhibit a distinct rainbow Orient. However, Japanese Akoya Pearls, due to their very thin layers of nacre (3-5%), will rarely show orient. By contrast, the Tahitian Black Pearl, cultured using the Japanese method, will exhibit orient. Why? Because the nacre coating is in excess of two millimeters, thick enough to allow light to reflect.
 

Luster Of Pearls
 

Pearls at their best are bright, reflective gemstones - high luster generally equals high quality. If this is important to you, try looking for Pearls with clean and even surfaces, as they reflect more light and do so more evenly than Pearls with blemished surfaces. However, please remember that most Pearls do have blemishes; intelligent Pearl manufactures solve this problem by concealing blemishes near the drill holes.
 

Thin-coated cultured Pearls should be avoided as they often display less luster and orient and can even chip or occasionally peel. Pearls should possess a reasonably thick layer of Nacre on the bead. Many people check for thin coats by peering down the Pearl drill hole to see exactly where the thickness of the coating starts on the bead. Other people check for a thin coat by holding Pearls under a strong light source and rolling it back and forth between their fingers - if you can clearly see the bead, the coating is thin.
 

Weight, Size & Shape
 

As with other gemstones, value and weight are intrinsically linked, the heavier the Pearl, the greater it's desirability. However, there is one important difference, Pearls are measured and expressed by their size not weight (e.g. 8.5 millimeters). Often very large Pearls (9mm or more) are disproportionately expensive in comparison to their price-to-weight ratio. When weight is needed for buying multiple Pearls, it is usually stated in grams.
 

Round Pearls should be as perfectly round as possible. However, even top quality strands can contain the occasional semi-round Pearl. Described as being round, semi-round, off round, or baroque, the best shape, as with color is a matter of personal preference.
 

Pearl Necklaces
 
Pearl necklaces come in a wide variety of styles:
 
Bib: Consists of several strands of Pearls of varying lengths.
 

Collar or Dog Collar (12-13 Inches Long): This style consists of multiple strands of Pearls worn high on the neck. Very popular during the Victorian era, this style is now making a bit of a comeback.
 

Choker (14-16 Inches Long): Similar to a collar, this style is worn somewhat lower on the neck.
 

Princess (17-19 Inches Long): Essentially the “Classic” length for a Pearl necklace, this style lies slightly below the neck. This is versatile style that can be worn with many different styles of neckline.
 

Matinee (20-24 Inches Long): Working well with suits and dresses, this style was traditionally worn for semi-formal occasions.
 

Opera (30-36 Inches Long): Traditionally worn at formal occasions with evening dresses, the Pearls are designed to fall below the bust line but these days such rules are only viewed as guidelines. The strand can be doubled over if worn during the day in less-formal settings.
 

Rope (Over 36 Inches Long): This is the longest of all Pearl necklace styles and was very popular during the 1920’s. It can be doubled as well as knotted. Some rope necklaces have multiple clasps, allowing it to be broken down into shorter necklaces.
 


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