Jewelry Settings

Most jewelry is crafted from individual components. The pieces are often created on the jewelers' bench and then skillfully joined. The components needed in most types of jewelry are incredibly simple. Even the most expensive tiffany-style diamond ring features just three pieces - the band of the ring, the gallery that mounts the claws, and then finally the jewel itself.

With a few peripheral components such as earring-posts, chains, and hinges (often known as “findings”), these basic components are used to make everything from solitaire and gem-set rings, to earrings, necklaces, pendants and more complex pieces. While the claw setting is the most frequently seen method of setting gems and diamonds, there are a variety of other methods also used to set jewels in precious metals.

Prong Setting

What does it look like?

Also known as the Claw setting, the Prong setting has small metal claws with a vice-like grip that are bent over the girdle of the gem to ensure its secure and enduring position.

Typical prong settings have 4 claws. Prong settings with 6 claws are also called the “Tiffany” setting because it was originally developed by the founder of Tiffany & Co. in 1886. Marquise and Trilliant cut gems can respectively have just two or three claws at the corners where the points of the jewels are nestled in specialized v-shaped claws.

The prongs must always be equal.

The visible prong ends are often rounds, ovals, points, V-shapes (usually called “chevron”), flat and sometimes formed into ornamental shapes (usually called “enhanced prongs”).

Why is this setting used?

As all gemstones are suitable for Prong setting, it is the most frequently used method of setting gems into jewelry because the prongs are easier to adjust to the size of an individual gemstone.

Prong setting brilliantly shows off the gemstone, since the gemstone is positioned higher and is more easily seen.

Prong setting is especially popular for solitaire engagement rings and in bridal rings. When combined with Pave setting, prong settings are considered to be the most suitable for women as this setting is more feminine, especially for designs with smaller shoulders and smaller gemstones.

Prong setting is best for earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings.

The more prongs, the more secure and safe your gemstones will be!

Bezel Setting

What does it look like?

A Bezel setting is a crafted diskette of metal that holds the gemstone by its girdle to the ring, securely encircling the entire circumference of the gem. An age old technique that can appear very contoured and modern, it is labor intensive and must be crafted to precisely circumnavigate the outline of the gem.

Variations of the Bezel setting are the “Flush” or “Gypsy” settings. The surface of the ring has a window cut into it that exactly fits the size of the gem. Secured from underneath, the crown of the gem rises from the ring beautifully catching rays of light.

When the setting half surrounds the gemstone it is called a “Half-Bezel” or “Semi-Bezel”.

A Bezel setting needs to be balanced and straight, from angle-to-angle. Gemstones cut with sides and angles are considered difficult, while Oval and Round are easier.

Bezels can have straight, scalloped edges and can be molded into a gemstone of any shape.

Why is this setting used?

A Bezel setting protects the edges, the girdle and the pavilion of the gemstones.

Bezel setting adds height, dimension and a great modern look.

Bezel setting is best suited to people with active lifestyles. Bezel settings are considered the best for men because this style of setting looks masculine, especially when the designs have BIG shoulders and BIG gemstones.

Bezel setting is best for earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings.

Pave Setting

What does it look like?

Pronounced “pa vay”, Pave setting is a Claw-like setting. They are so small they are barely visible. The claws are triangular in shape and are usually handmade.

The settings are created by use of tiny prongs that hold the jewels on both sides, or are crafted by scooping beads of precious metal out to hold the gems in place.

Why is this setting used?

Pave settings produce a carpet of brilliance across the entire surface of a piece of jewelry. The surface is encrusted, or quite literally “paved” in diamonds and gems, and the body of the jewelry is brought vibrantly to life.

Pave setting displays an illusionary bigger look using multiple gemstones.

Pave setting is usually combined with other gemstone settings to add more effect and beauty.

Pave settings are best for Diamonds. Pave setting is often used in conjunction with white gold, which further creates an effect of the whole piece of jewelry being crafted from Diamonds.

Pave setting is best for Round, Oval, Princess, Emerald, Square and Baguette cut gemstones.

Channel Setting

What does it look like?

A setting technique whereby gemstones are held side-by-side with their girdles held between two long tracks of precious metal. When used with Square, Princess and Rectangular shaped jewels, the effect is breathtaking as no metal appears between the jewels - they appear to float in a tightly bejeweled chain within the jewelry.

The gemstones in Channel setting are set closely together so that no gold between the gems is necessary. This produces the maximum amount of light and brightness from the gemstones and allows the jewelry to keep looking bright for a long time.

In Channel setting it is very important gemstones with precisely cut pavilions are used, if not the gemstones will crack or be lost!

Why is this setting used?

Channel setting is quite often used in commercial jewelry designs. Often seen in eternity bands and tennis bracelets, gemstones are held side-by-side by their girdles between two long tracks of precious metal.

Channel setting is best for Diamonds and for Round, Oval, Princess, Emerald, Square and Baguette cuts.

Channel setting is best for rings and bracelets.